Here is a comprehensive list of the things we use in the automotive detailing division of NextGen XR.
First, the Rules to Detail By:
- Use the least aggressive methods and evaluate the results before stepping up to more aggressive methods.
- Use clean, soft, properly-washed microfiber towels.
- Clean your tools and polishing pads thoroughly between use.
- Practice on something unimportant before moving on to something valuable.
- Research the materials on the car, and how to clean and coat them properly.
Microfiber Towels
You’ll need a lot of towels. Wash them before their first use. Get a range of colors.
“GSM” – grams per square meter – is how you grade towel softness. Higher GSM numbers mean more softness, and the range is 300 GSM for utility towels to 650 GSM for the most plush towels (for your supercar’s paint). Use only “tagless” and “edgeless” towels, or ones with a very soft edge, like from Ethos. During final polishing and afterwards, only use high-GSM (450+) towels on the paint surface.
If the towel gets dirty in use or hits the floor, remove any debris in the towel and get a new one as that towel is done. Wash it or toss it. Always machine wash the towels separate from any clothes, cotton towels, etc.; washing microfiber towels with non-microfiber fabric causes the microfibers to grab and hold on to all the other stuff (cotton fibers, etc.) and they will not be as effective. You likely don’t want to wash automotive things with your clothes, anyway.
Use different color towels for various purposes to help keep them separate. So, a towel that cleaned the wheels (GSM 350 black) never touches the paint (450+ GSM red), and a towel for glass (waffle-weave blue) won’t pick up polishing gunk (yellow, green, etc., GSM 350 for polishing or interior), etc.
Wash with medium or high heat wash, and low tumble or air dry. The dryer step helps generate static cling, and is how the towels work. Never use softener in the washer or dryer; you want static.
Use laundry soap free of anything, or a microfiber-specific wash https://smile.amazon.com/Chemical-Guys-CWS_201-Microfiber-Fluid_Ounces/dp/B07D92895P/ref=sr_1_3 – I’ll use both if they are filthy.
Get these or similar for general use, in a few colors: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0166U4PVC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title or 300GSM https://smile.amazon.com/Commercial-All-Purpose-Microfiber-Absorbent-Streak-Free/dp/B00SENQIQA/ref=sr_1_1_sspa
These prices are good for microfiber, too, and are high quality: https://www.esotericcarcare.com/microfiber-towels/
To prevent swirls and scratches on polished cars, towels with GSM 450 or higher should be all that ever touches the paint: https://www.esotericcarcare.com/esoteric-red-premium-microfiber-towel/ or https://smile.amazon.com/RAG-COMPANY-Professional-Microfiber-Detailing/dp/B00GXRG64I
Washing the Vehicle
Wash vehicles out of the sun. Dried-on hard water spots can leave deposits that can be impossible to get out without sanding or replacing the clearcoat. Or, ensure that water never dries on the car in the sun. A pressure washer helps as you can keep spraying to keep it wet, and then pull it in the garage to dry. We use a hose mister and bucket to wash in the garage if the weather is bad or we need to be out of the sun. If you can use softened water, that is better, but it can still leave spots. The longer the dried deposits sit on the surface, the more they embed into the paint and glass. Coating the vehicle in graphene will help prevent water spots and etching.
The First Step, Cleaning the Wheels
https://www.esotericcarcare.com/esoteric-essential-wheel-care-kit/
For removing brake dust (iron debris) from wheels and paint before claying and polish: https://www.esotericcarcare.com/gyeon-q2m-iron/
Then Pre-Treat the Car with Foam:
Foam Cannon (optional) for pre-wash https://www.esotericcarcare.com/mtm-snub-nose-spray-gun-foam-cannon-kit/ Any similar product will do if you have something.
This Foam Cannon shampoo comes highly recommended: https://ethoscarcare.com/products/foam-party
For Bug and Grime removal: https://www.esotericcarcare.com/gyeon-q2m-bug-grime-cleaner/ and the https://www.esotericcarcare.com/sonax-insect-sponge/ We also like the Turtle Wax Bug Remover.
Spray and wait, then gently scrub bugs. Graphene coating will make them clean off more quickly in the future. The paint and Trim need to be completely clean before polishing and graphene coating, but be gentle, and don’t scratch.
Cleaning the Car Exterior:
https://www.esotericcarcare.com/esoteric-essential-diy-wash-kit/
A wash mitt and drying towel are also handy https://www.esotericcarcare.com/drying-towels/
Claying
Claying used an actual clay or synthetic mitt or block – along with a lubricant spray – that you gently rub across the surface of the car to remove contaminants embedded in the paint or glass.
You should polish the car if you clay the paint, as it is slightly abrasive as it pulls up contaminants, and it can mar the surface. Using Gyeon Iron Out spray (“chemical decontamination”) first helps to reduce this marring by melting metal embedded in the paint, which is then gently e washed away. After we coat the car in graphene, far fewer contaminants will get in the surfaces.
This is a clay bar “mitt” kit to use after wash and before compound/polish: https://ethoscarcare.com/products/quick-decon-clay-mitt?variant=32754647040080 – you may need more of the spray to have on hand, but the mitt will last a very long time. I just bought one of these.
After claying, do a quick wash or rinse to remove any clay solution. Inspect and clean anything remaining, and clean and rinse if needed. Use an automotive PH-neutral shampoo (see wash kit) that just washes (Gyeon Bathe) and at this point doesn’t add anything to the finish like gloss additives or SIO coatings.
Polishing
This is one of the kits I have and used on the Cadillac, Hyundai, and Jeep so far https://www.esotericcarcare.com/rupes-lhr12-duetto-one-step-polishing-kit/
This is the “One-Step” kit, which means it does paint-correction and polishing with one pad and polishing fluid. See the video there.
It includes the Rupes 5″ polisher with a 12mm throw (good) and Rupes general purpose pads (very good), and Sonax Perfect-Finish (very good). Get the large version of the kit with the 1000ml Perfect Finish – your big vehicle may need it, and it is cheaper per ounce.
This may be all you need for polishing, as the “one-step” correct-and-polish method takes care of ~80% of defects. Before coating, you’d likely want to take out more defects in the truck, and can do one-step several times where needed. That said, Compounding (described below) may be needed for swirls and scratches, and would get the paint perfected faster.
You may be able to do most of the truck with just the 5″ polisher and this kit, and not need smaller polishers. You can put different size plates on polishers, but because it orbits and spins it may be unbalanced and vibrate.
We have medium-sized 3.5″ polishers for getting into smaller spaces and more curved areas of panels: https://www.esotericcarcare.com/rupes-lhr75e-mini-bigfoot/ – we don’t have that specific model, but I like the Rupes polishers. Solid, powerful, low vibration, and built to last. Rupes are the industry standard for many, but there are other options, certainly.
This is the small 1″ to 2″ polisher I have: https://www.esotericcarcare.com/rupes-bigfoot-ibrid-nano-box-kit-long-neck/
This is an alternative that the Apex guy uses: https://www.amazon.com/SPTA-Polishing-Detailing-Superpolish-Extension/dp/B07H3T7BYZ/ref=sr_1_2 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EeS6GjQfkI4 – it does 1″ through 3″. I might pick that up at some point, it has some nice options and comes with a lot.
I love my Rupes Nano, but it is pricey. I used it for between the chrome grille on the Jeep, and tight curves on the front bumper. I use it all over the house and cars, and even use the Dremel Velcro-backed cleaning pads for scrubbing stuff. I used Dremel scrubbing pads on the oven before coating it, and for baked-on pizza pans, etc. I use the yellow Rupes polishing pads for polishing my cultured marble sinks, and a lot of other things.
Compounding Defects
For deeper scratches and swirls, you do “compounding” or “paint correction” before the polishing step, above. The one-step does some paint correction, but deeper defects need more.
(You can also sand the clearcoat at this stage, and the Rupes Duetteo is built for sanding, too. Compounding and polishing takes out P1500 and P3000 sanding marks. https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B005RMZRFY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title – really only needed for a lot of defects, and you have to be more careful on how much clearcoat you remove. )
I did a couple passes of light compounding on the Jeep. Three passes on the hood and front fenders. Some areas of the Cadillac had a number of passes as I figured out how this works and how aggressive I could be. Every car is different, so testing the paint is important, and always start with the least aggressive option and work up. You need a different liquid and pad for compounding.
I use this https://www.esotericcarcare.com/jescar-correcting-compound/ combined with different pads like this https://www.esotericcarcare.com/meguiars-microfiber-cutting-disc-2-pack/ and https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00JYSYJMY/ref=twister_B06X6LY4N5?encoding=UTF8&psc=1 On the Jeep I used the second cutting pad above and a new pad that does medium “cut” compounding and also polishing. It is a good one as you practice compounding, and for general use alternative to the Rupes yellow pads: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0799QRV7G/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I hand-sanded some areas on the front bumper of the Jeep for deeper dings and discoloration, then compounded and polished.
For the Jescar Correcting Compound, get the larger. Cheaper per ounce, and since your truck has a lot of swirls you have some catching up to do. Glass Use microfiber towels for glass: https://smile.amazon.com/Rag-Company-Diamond-Professional-Microfiber/dp/B07Q3YJYVH Interior Glass: https://smile.amazon.com/Rag-Company-Professional-Microfiber-Buttersoft/dp/B07VYVM7L2 Use an automotive glass cleaner that removes the film that builds-up. https://www.esotericcarcare.com/gyeon-q2m-glass/ Cheaper by the gallon: https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00E0NUOKO/ref=twister_B0757HHHMB?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 And buy sprayers https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B06WGT4HRN/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title
The Sprayway cleaner works well, too. https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07J22J33Q/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title
Tires
I’m waiting for this to get back in stock to try it: https://ethoscarcare.com/products/tire-shine – also see below. Most tire sprays you get at the store don’t last or “sling” crap on the car. Have to be wary. Tires and Trim I used POLISHANGEL Black on the Cadillac’s tires, trim, rubber door gaskets, and throughout engine compartment once it was clean: https://www.esotericcarcare.com/polishangel-black-bond-plastic-rubber-coating/ It works excellent on faded Trim, it holds up well on tires, etc., and the little bottle goes a LONG way, I still have my original bottle after a lot of use. But I am keeping my eye out for alternatives. We used the Graphene coating on Mary’s Jeep, as it wasn’t badly faded. It looks great, adds UV protection to prevent fading, it darkened it up, and will help keep it clean.
Coating
This is the coating https://ethoscarcare.com/products/graphene?variant=32709346328656 The surface should be clayed, paint-corrected, and polished before coating with graphene. Anything in the paint will be sealed in for years, and how glossy the paint looks greatly affects the look of the coating.
If a coating isn’t desired, or correct/polish can’t be done, this stuff is really good: https://ethoscarcare.com/products/ceramic-wax The Caddy has Turtle Wax Hybrid Acrylic/Ceramic polish for now until I’m done working on the body. This all needs to be stripped-off with a one-step polish before graphene coating. So, can start with Ceramic Wax Pro or Turtle Wax for Black Cars and move to graphene when ready. Engine Compartment Pressure washing isn’t always the best approach for the engine, and some engines like the Caddy show a “No” symbol with a pressure sprayer on the fuse cover. Most everything else should be waterproof.
This is a citrus-based cleaner, and I dilute it down into another sprayer. 16 ounces goes a long way. https://smile.amazon.com/Chemical-Guys-CLD_201_16-Signature-Degreaser/dp/B00DZI39UW/ref=sr_1_5 For coating the engine compartment, this works on a wide variety of things but I’m waiting for it to come into stock so I can try it: https://ethoscarcare.com/products/surface-coat I used PolishAngel Black on the plastic Trim, rubber, and on plastic covers all over the Caddy engine. Maintenance and Washing After the coating is done, wait at least 24 hours before getting wet, preferable 48. Wait at least a week before washing. It continues to harden over that time. Water won’t damage it while it cures, and maybe gently dry when you get a chance. Should be easy w/coating.
An automatic car was is not ideal, but understandable. Touchless car washes uses harsher chemicals that eat away at the coating, and touch washes leave scratches and swirls. The graphene coating helps a lot to prevent swirls, it just won’t last as long. A coated car should stay cleaner longer, can be rinsed with water, or washed without water with a simple spray in about the time it takes to run to the car wash.
For wash, you can use Gyeon Bathe or something similar and use Defy spray to add gloss and protection to the coating. You can also use something like https://ethoscarcare.com/products/ceramic-shampoo that adds gloss and a that “sacrificial layer” to extend the life of the coating.
Alternatively, you can just do a “waterless wash” with Defy spray, which I gave Mary: https://ethoscarcare.com/products/defy – quick and easy, and eliminates the inevitable swirls and scratches from the car wash. The spray adds gloss and protection to the coating and paint, and is a replaceable “sacrificial layer” that wears instead of the coating.
Use higher-GSM microfibers on a polished car, especially when doing waterless wash. GSM 450 or higher. https://smile.amazon.com/RAG-COMPANY-Professional-Microfiber-Detailing/dp/B00GXRG64I The Rag Company stuff is very good, and lots of options. https://smile.amazon.com/stores/The+Rag+Company/page/DF6F5F07-497D-496A-9218-CF22586184E6?ref=ast_bln
Ensure there is not a lot of dirt on the car that would scratch as you wipe or salt on the surface, you’d want to wash that off. See https://youtu.be/kCkfW1peQew – this guy now does more waterless washing than the traditional approach. If he’s impressed, it is really good. I have bought a lot of this. Can’t get it in bulk yet.
Winter Salt
For salt removal, this is concentrated: https://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-road-salt-neutralizer-gallon.html – there are alternatives, but this says it is safe for paint. The graphene coating will help protect from salt and chemicals like this. I’ll be using this on the undercarriage of the Carry this winter. I had a different spray last winter that isn’t available.step